How to ensure abundant and lush garden bloom
We are searching data for your request:
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.
Beautiful garden from spring to cold weather
You can often notice that in adjacent areas where there are flower beds, they look different. Some plants delight with their bright, lush inflorescences, an abundance of colors, while on other beds the flowers look dull, they are lost among weeds and dried leaves.
This difference is explained by the different approach of the owners of the plots to caring for the plants. What should be done to make the flower garden always please you?
In addition to the usual work of weeding plants, cleaning them from weeds and faded buds, creating compost, regular feeding of plants is very important. Well-rotted compost from perennial weeds and other waste on the site will provide your garden with nutrition and improve the quality of the soil.
Place the compost under the planting and cover it with fresh mulch, and you will not need to apply chemical fertilizers. If you don't have compost, feed the flowers with a special flower chemical fertilizer. It is important that it contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements. The ratio of the main elements - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus should be equal to 5: 5: 5 or 10:10:10.
Flowering plants respond actively to fertilization with a high phosphorus content. Here the ratio of the main elements is 5: 10: 5.
Alternate organic and chemical fertilizers regularly. Use chemicals strictly according to the instructions on the package. Otherwise, you can do more harm than good to the flowers.
Start feeding perennials in early spring as soon as the first shoots hatch.
Annual plants and bulbous crops need light feeding in the middle of summer. Never feed perennials and ornamental grasses in the fall, as such feeding stimulates plant growth, and they should already be preparing for winter to go into hibernation.
Good soil preparation and mulching of the flower garden requires regular, frequent watering. If the ground is bare and dry, water often and little by little. The roots of the flowers grow deep and the soil stays moist even in the heat.
Mulching the surface around the plants helps to maintain moisture.
If you can't water everything at once, water individual plants to make the perennials look bright. They need mandatory watering once a week during the growing season.
Good watering should be gentle and gentle over a long period so that the water seeps down at least 40-50 cm. Provide the plants with continuous water absorption once a week. After the water dries on the surface of the earth in dry weather, the roots growing downward seek deep water.
With shallow watering, plants with deep roots survive drought better than plants with roots located close to the surface.
Water not only by sprinkling, use other methods as well. For example, you can use a hose by placing it under a layer of mulch in your garden beds.
Protect plants from excessive wetting of the leaves, this will prevent the development of fungal diseases on them.
Do not use cold tap water. The best water for irrigation is warm water from a reservoir or container, warmed up in the sun during the day.
Get out, garden pests!
Well-growing strong flowers are less susceptible to pests and diseases than those growing in poor conditions. Although sometimes even regardless of the good maintenance of the garden, some plants are affected by insects or fungal diseases.
In industrial nurseries, pesticides are usually applied immediately to control them. But your planting volumes are not comparable to industrial ones. Therefore, before declaring war on pests and diseases, try first to perform several activities without chemistry. For example, spray the plants daily with a hose to remove pests.
Soap spraying of plants destroys some soft-bodied pests in contact with them. This spraying covers the eggs of the pests and kills them.
Use a spray to combat powdery mildew, a mold that covers the leaves of many plants with white fluff in summer and autumn.
If you still have to resort to a chemical method of control, then strictly follow the directions and instructions posted on the label. If they are not suitable for your use, you could harm yourself or your plants.
To strengthen the plants for the next growing season, collect all the trash in the fall and get rid of the spores and pest eggs on the hanging wilted flower heads. Start cleaning and cleaning the garden in the fall after the onset of cold weather, when annuals wither and perennials, as well as early flowering plants, begin to wither.
Remove annuals from the ground, shake off the soil from their roots as much as possible. Remove faded flower heads, as they can lead to self-seeding. After the seed heads are ripe, cut them together with the stems. Shake the seeds out so they don't end up in compost or mulch where they can sprout. Trim the tops of the perennials. They are usually brown at this time. Although you can leave tender shoots resulting from self-seeding before winter.
Most ornamental grasses look stunning in autumn and good in winter - they turn white and dry in a floral bouquet. The dry branches, leaves and seed heads of many perennials and ornamental grasses look decorative during the winter. They also provide food and shelter for birds.
Wait until very early spring to prune your plants. Enjoy the natural look of the garden.
Place all rubbish in a compost heap, large - chop or pick to help rotting hard parts.
In winter, the branches of the plants help trap the snow. Garden flowers are better preserved under a blanket of snow. This is another reason to take your time with pruning old branches until early spring. In the fall, you can cut off the branches partially, leaving a couple of dry stems that will hold back the snow and create comfort for the plant.
In areas where frosts are often replaced by thaws, perennials can wake up and grow. This is dangerous for plants, as they risk dying during the next cold snap. They can be saved by maintaining snow cover during the winter months.
Help perennials stay warm. Cover them in the fall with clipped branches, spruce branches, oak leaves, chopped bark, and shavings or a thick layer of mulch in early winter after the soil freezes. The protective coating restrains deep soil freezing, strengthens the plant in the soil and keeps the soil from compaction.
The shelter will need to be removed at the end of winter.
Growing calla lilies in the open field
You can plant zantedeschia in open ground already in the middle of spring. The main thing is that the earth is well warmed up. Planting should be watered well immediately. The next time it is necessary to moisten the soil after 10 or 14 days. It is best to acidify water with oxalic or citric acid.
After the calla lilies have adapted to a new place, and they begin to grow, it will be possible to fertilize them with a complex mineral fertilizing.
As mentioned earlier, an excess of them (especially those containing nitrogen) should be avoided. This adversely affects the plant. The tubers may not survive.
Abundant flowering of calla lilies in the open field
If the weather conditions are favorable, then already four weeks after planting, this plant already begins to bloom. But this does not happen in the first year, but in the second.
After the calla has faded, you should stop watering it. At this time, the plant begins a rest period. In order for calla lilies to have such a rest period more favorably, it is best to leave 3 or 4 leaves on it. The rest are carefully cut off.
Calla will delight with its flowering until the end of September - mid-October. After weather conditions become unfavorable, this crop will need to be transferred to containers or containers with soil mixture. It should consist of turf and peat in a 2 to 1 ratio.
Callas with large rhizomes should be planted in separate pots. As for specimens with a smaller size, they can be seated in groups. True, in this case, their accuracy should be avoided - zantedeschia do not tolerate tightness.
Those babies that appeared during the transplant must be separated. So the calla will be able to develop better and there will be a chance for its beautiful winter flowering. But this will be only if there was no overfeeding with nitrogen and the rest period is normally survived.
I have a large garden and vegetable garden, several greenhouses. I love modern methods of plant cultivation and soil mulching, I share my experience.
The optimal soil composition for this flower will be a mixture with equal parts of earth, sand, peat and leaf humus. If the soil in the area where the calla lilies will be planted is different, then it is worth adding the missing elements. For example, if the soil is too heavy, then it is worth adding more peat, and in the case when the soil is poor, then humus.
Even good drainage will not protect the plant from fungus or root rot if there are harmful spores in the soil. Therefore, we recommend disinfecting the soil before planting with a manganese solution. And if the plants on the site often get sick with a fungus, then it is worth taking a stronger remedy, for example, the drug Previkur.
Repeat watering with antifungal agents from time to time, especially during periods of very high temperatures. It is also important to cultivate the land around the flower.
The optimal watering regime will be moderate, but often moisturizing. If the rainy season has recently passed, and there are fears that fungal and putrefactive infections will begin to develop, you can sprinkle the top layer of the soil with ash abundantly.
When planting a plant in spring, pay attention to the temperature at night, not just during the day. It is worth considering that the soil itself should warm up not only in the upper layers, but also a little deeper.
We would like to note that an excess of nitrogen-containing fertilizers is harmful not only for calla lilies, but also for any plants. If you apply them not only at the beginning of spring, then this will provoke the build-up of excess vegetative mass. A large amount of nitrogen contributes to the softening of the roots, which leads to the fact that they do not fulfill their functions - they do not feed the aerial parts of the plant.
If there is a need to save space, then you can use not pots for wintering the described culture, but a plastic box with prepared drainage and soil mixture. It is only important to respect the gaps between the bulbs.
If there is no experience in applying dressings, then it is better to buy several ready-made complex mixtures and apply according to the instructions.
If your calla is not blooming, then the reason may be in the wrong choice of a place for planting, feeding at the wrong time and by the wrong means, and their insufficient amount. Sometimes this happens if the flower has little space and tubers have grown. Also, calla lilies may not bloom after transplanting.
Flower growers in central Russia were seized by the "gold rush", but this is not a desire for enrichment, but a desire to find the best colors of autumn for their gardens. Gelenium literally dazzles with a scattering of bright yellow, amber, orange flowers. The name of one of the traditional varieties of the plant, namely Goldrausch, means "gold rush" (German). The Helenium Goldriese DD variety was bred in Dresden - "Golden Giant DD".
Knowing the intricacies of growing a flower, you can enjoy its diversity for a long time. Breeders tried to keep gardeners amazed at the new possibilities of gelenium. Agricultural technology is simple, affordable, the plant has good chances to win the love of Russians, its place in the sun in the vastness of a great power.
Gelenium - golden Indian summer accent
Walk past an autumn flower bed in the Central Russian region, notice a scattering of rather large leaves crowned with proud golden yellow flowers, reminiscent of chamomile with an orange heart. This is Helenium hybrid, for which natural species became the original form. One of them is G. autumnal, its Latin name is Helenium autumnale. The plant belongs to the Asteraceae (Compositae) family.
Gelenium's cellular fluid contains toxins that can irritate human skin.
Distribution and characterization
Natural species are found in wet, low-lying meadows, the outskirts of swamps, as well as the edges of the forests of Western America. One- and perennial hybrids are cultivated as horticultural crops, grown for cutting. The plant loves the sun, the needs for water are also quite high, which can be provided in the northern and central regions of Russia.
Helenium bloom begins in the summer and lasts until the first frost (60 days). The "lush wilting of nature" in the European part of Russia does not suffer from a lack of crimson and golden colors. A riot of colors covers the upper and middle tiers of the garden, and the greenish-gray shades of succulents dominate the flower beds. Gelenium is a bright, harmonious accord that is necessary for the Russian autumn.
Strong woody stems of the plant are covered with lanceolate leaves with a serrated edge along the entire height. Low forms rise above flower beds by 30-60 cm, large hybrids reach 90-180 cm. The sizes of single or corymbose groups of inflorescences vary slightly. Usually the baskets have a diameter of 3–7 cm, they resemble daisies with a convex central part.
Subtle aroma, abundance of pollen attract insects. No cases of allergy to the smell of helenium have been identified in humans.
The marginal flowers are monochromatic or two-colored. Their shades range from light yellow to brown. The tubular central flowers are usually yellow-brown, but red, burgundy are found. The oblong achene has a slight pubescence.
Gelenium is a hardy perennial. Wintering
Most varieties are cultivated in zones 3-8 according to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) classification. The northern part of the range is zones 3-4, here the helenium bloom period is from June to July, to the south - August-October. The plant is able to withstand temperatures below 0 ° C in winter (the zone number in brackets):
−40 ... −34 ° C (3)
−34 ... −29 ° C (4)
−29 ... −23 ° C (5)
−23 ... −18 ° C (6)
−18 ... −12 ° C (7)
−12 ... −7 ° C (8).
A significant part of central Russia is suitable for growing gelenium, because it does not go beyond the 3–8 USDA cold-hardiness / winter-hardiness zones.
Moderately warm, moderately cold and snowy climates with sufficient moisture according to the Köppen classification are also suitable for the plant. The climate of deciduous forests of the temperate zone with a predominance of summer precipitation, prevailing in the central Russian zone, is most favorable for gelenium.
Rhizomes of almost all varieties die off in winter, as do the stems on the soil surface. In autumn, buds form underground, from which new helenium bushes develop. These are separate rosettes of green leaves with developed young roots. After the first frost, young shoots should be covered to prevent freezing and thawing, leading to the death of plants. The shelter is removed in the spring, when the threat of severe frosts has passed.
Agrotechnics of cultivation, care for helenium
The abundance of light, the presence of moisture - such conditions are necessary for many ornamental crops. The site for planting gelenium is selected taking into account the requirements for these two factors.If the soil is sandy, it should be "heavier" by adding clay with humus. Clay substrates also need to be improved with compost. Loose chernozems rich in organic matter are suitable, but helenium can stretch, its decorative qualities will suffer. The same effect is caused by excessive fertilization, so 3 mineral and organic dressings are enough.
Stimulates bushiness, abundant flowering, pinching of the growing point. It is carried out in the spring, when the stems grow to about 8 cm. Ideal conditions for helenium are the duration of the glow of the gentle autumn sun for at least 6 hours. Roots need cool, slightly acidic or neutral soil (pH 5.5 to 7.0). Protects from excessive heating mulching the earth with a thick layer of chopped leaves.
If the helenium bushes have become dense, bloom less, then the plant is rejuvenated. To do this, the rhizome is dug in the spring, the green shoots are separated and planted in flower beds. This procedure is performed once every 3-4 years. With an early transplant, young shoots are planted in pots, placed in a greenhouse or greenhouse before the onset of warm days.
Note to the gardener:
Delays in transplanting more than 5 years can lead to freezing of green shoots, because they are located higher than the previous ones, and are more susceptible to cold.
The late bloom of helenium is due to the rejection of high summer temperatures, the heating of the earth.
The total flowering time increases with shortening of the stems. This technique is performed in early summer, it does not allow the plant to stretch, postpones the appearance of the first buds.
In the fall, before frost, it is necessary to cut the stems to the ground.
Most varieties of helenium are resistant to diseases, but they can be affected by powdery mildew, root rot, and leaf spot. Chemicals are used to fight bacterial and fungal infections.
Reproduction of helenium: vegetative, seed
When dividing the bush in the spring, it is noticeable that it is a rosette of small independent shoots, each of them is able to give an adult plant. If the substrate is sandy or clayey, then humus is added first. The distance between the bushes is 50-60 cm. Young plants need to be stably provided with moisture, make sure that the soil does not dry out.
Helenium is rejuvenated by dividing the rhizomes, usually only in spring. Plants transplanted in autumn in central Russia die in winter from cold and excess moisture.
Another way of reproduction of helenium is sowing seeds, which it is advisable to germinate from the end of winter indoors. Sowing in open ground is possible both in autumn and spring. The site needs to be moist, receiving enough sunlight. Before sowing, the land should be enriched with humus, water the holes for the seeds. When shoots appear, they switch to irrigation after 3-4 days.
Species of the genus Helenium
Tall rhizome perennial - autumn helenium (H. autumnale). The straight stems of the plant reach a height of 160 cm. The diameter of the baskets is 5 cm. The marginal flowers are yellow with red, the tubular ones are golden. Flowering of this species begins in July and lasts until September. Autumn Gelenium is the ancestor of almost all yellow-red garden plant hybrids.
An interesting species for breeders and flower growers is H. Hoopesii. It is a rhizome perennial with dense grayish-green leaves. Its orange-colored baskets bloom in June, which is unusual in the genus Helenium.
Rhizome perennial G. Bigelov (H. Bigelovii). Leaves are whole, lanceolate. Yellow ligulate flowers surround a dark brown core.
A rather tall perennial - G. spring (N. vernalis). Juicy green leaves well set off large yellow inflorescences with a diameter of 7 cm. This species overwinters in Siberia without shelter, blooms in May-June.
Garden varieties and hybrids of helenium
Altgold. A medium-sized variety of German selection, blooming profusely throughout August and September. Medium-sized ligulate flowers are painted in golden-orange tones, there is a red border. The core is yellow-brown. Looks attractive in flower beds, suitable for cutting.
Double Trouble. Compact plant of medium height (80 cm). The strong stems of this variety of helenium bring to light numerous semi-double baskets of a sunny yellow color.
"Dee Blonde" (Dee Blonde). A tall variety that blooms profusely from the first decade of August to the end of September. The diameter of the baskets is 4.5 cm. The red-brown ligulate flowers surround the brown tubular ones.
Ruby Tuesday. Compact shrubs with a height of 50 cm are suitable for containers and flowerpots. This variety blooms for a long time, its baskets are painted in dark red shades.
El Dorado. One of the best hybrid varieties of the last decade. It begins to bloom in early summer and continues to delight until early November. The marginal flowers of the baskets are yellow with red flashes, the core is colored in brown shades.
Chelsey. Modern grade of Gelenium suitable for containers. A compact plant with strong stems up to 80 cm high. Large crimson flowers have an apricot-yellow edge (with an abundance of sun, yellow color predominates). Abundant flowering lasts the second half of summer and all autumn.
Fata Morgana. An excellent variety of Gelenium with semi-double marginal flowers. The height of the bush is 70–100 cm. Spectacular large inflorescences are flashes of apricot color against the background of golden marginal petals and a brown center. The flowering period covers July-September.
Fiesta. Excellent variety of Dutch selection. The bushes reach a height of 120 cm. Dense leaves are lanceolate, dark green. Baskets appear in July, they are medium in size (5 cm). The petals are orange-red, the tubular flowers are golden, burgundy.
Gelenium is a real gift from autumn nature. The plant is light-loving, it seems to be trying to absorb more sunlight, revive fading colors. Many varieties of helenium are adapted to mosaic lighting, partial shade. Wet, fertile soils are preferable for modern hybrids.
Gelenium is great for different types of flower beds, looks good in mixborders, front gardens, near buildings and fences. The warm shades of the petals of an overseas guest against the background of lush greenery seem to push back the wilting of the nature of the Central Russian strip, and then turn parting with autumn into a real holiday.
Possible growing problems
The plant is considered to be quite resistant to pests and diseases, but other problems may arise. One of them is the lack of flowering, this is due to an incorrectly chosen planting site or an excess of fertilizers. If there is a lot of nitrogen in the soil, then the number of buds may decrease, and the foliage will fatten and bush, which is why calla does not bloom.
A snow-white beauty can fall prey to gray rot or aphids. All this can be easily solved with the help of improvised means, for example, a soap solution will help against aphids.
With proper cultivation and optimal conditions, calla lilies can bloom for a very long time and stand in a bouquet.
Secrets of the lush and abundant flowering of petunias: rules of care and pinching
Growing independently or purchasing petunia, we count on the lush flowering of this plant, which will decorate the site throughout the season.
Of course, petunia will not let you down if you are a little more careful in caring for it.
So, the plant needs to provide regular watering , especially if it is planted in a pots, a box in other containers, where the earth dries out quickly enough. Those who have the opportunity to come to the site only on weekends are added to the soil when planting petunias superabsorbents capable of retaining water. They, of course, do not provide the required level of moisture, but they still prevent the plant from drying out and help "survive" until the next watering.
Also, it is necessary in a timely manner remove wilted flowers , and this should be done correctly. In addition to the flower itself, it is necessary to cut off the sepal with part of the stem. Indeed, in the sepals, seeds continue to ripen, taking food from the plant.
And, of course, abundant and long flowering is impossible without pinching , which is the removal of the upper shoots.
Subsequent pinching will help the formation of side shoots , accordingly, the flower will bush, and not grow in long lashes. It is much easier for a plant to provide nutrition for small shoots, having received which they will begin to form buds faster.
How to do the pinching correctly
First time the plant is pinched at the stage of formation 5-6 leaves , as a rule, even before disembarking in open ground. Anything above 6 leaves must be cut off. Thus, it is formed growth point from where new shoots will appear. If for some reason this moment is missed and the plant has bloomed, remove the flower without regret.
For pinching better to use scissors so as not to injure the plant. If you are using a garden pruner, it is recommended to process tool so as not to infect.
Repeated pinching it is necessary to carry out if you notice that the plant begins to rapidly stretch and grow into a stem. Usually, this happens approximately a month after landing in the ground when the seedlings took root, got stronger and actively began to build up the green mass. Do not feel sorry for the elongated shoots with flowers. The plant will quickly restore its decorative effect, and such a procedure will only benefit it.
Combining pinching with reproduction
The stalk obtained as a result of pinching is placed in a container with water, where you can also add root formation stimulant. As soon as the petunia gives roots, leave a couple of upper leaves on the handle and plant in the ground.
Some root such cuttings directly in peat soil, tablets, as well as a mixture of earth with vermiculite. In this case, the cutting is first immersed in a growth stimulator, then buried in the ground. A plastic cup or bag is placed on top, creating greenhouse conditions for the handle.
In order for a rooted plant to grow stronger faster, it needs to be watered regularly and also fed.
By the way, feeding will not interfere with adult petunias, especially those that are planted in pots, boxes and other containers.
You can start feeding petunias at the earliest stage plant development, after 2 weeks, after picking seedlings. During this period, make nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
After planting seedlings in the ground and rooting, they bring organic and complex mineral fertilizers.
Further, already matured and adult plants are fed phosphorus-potassium fertilizers that promote the formation of buds and lush flowering.
Root feeding can be alternated with foliar feeding. For these purposes, complex fertilizers are used, which contain useful trace elements.
Quite often, petunias suffer from lack of iron , as a result of which the foliage, at the beginning of the season or in the middle of summer, begins to turn yellow. To remedy the situation, the flowers must be treated with iron-containing preparations, which are available in any specialized store. The multiplicity of processing is 3-4 times, the interval is two days.
A healthy plant will surely "thank" you with lush flowering.
How to protect a garden
First of all you need to clean the garden, this is a very important event. Many pests overwinter in fallen leaves under trees and shrubs. When they wake up, they begin to populate the garden. By clearing out all secluded places, we destroy a large number of potential parasites.
First of all, you need to clean the garden
Second secret a garden without pests - creating a strong immunity in plants. How can this be achieved? It is necessary to place every green creature in the garden in optimal conditions for it. For example, a young apricot seedling must be planted in an open, well-lit area. And rhododendrons, hosts or large-leaved hydrangeas are best placed in partial shade: they do not need constant exposure to the sun and can even harm.
In addition to the correct insolation regime, soil acidity is important for plant health. Before bringing a new pet to the garden, you need to try to provide it with the necessary growing conditions. A weakened plant becomes very vulnerable to diseases and pests, first of all, all the troubles will fall on the withering green creatures.
Azaleas and hosts thrive well in partial shade
Third secret a pest-free garden consists in actively combating them at the beginning of the summer season. And then, throughout the warm season, you only have to maintain success. To create a really powerful protection, a tool must be taken especially effective.
I choose the drug "Alatar" for my garden. It compares favorably with
other insecticides in that 2 of its active substances (malathion and cypermethrin) enhance each other's action plus destroy populations resistant to one of them. "Alatar" affects parasitic insects from different classes - up to 28 types of pests. Under its pressure, both adults (adults) and larvae die, so that the enemy has no chance of salvation.
"Alatar" compares favorably with other insecticides
It is used very simply. The required dose of the drug is dissolved in a small amount of water, and then added to the required volume. The instructions clearly state for which crop what concentration is optimal. Then the prepared solution is used for spraying. In the recommended doses, "Alatar" is not phytotoxic, that is, it has no harmful effect on plants.
For more information on how to protect the garden from pests and carry out its spring processing, see the video.
It should also be noted that, unlike many insecticidal preparations, "Alatar" is resistant to precipitation. This is especially practical for those gardeners who visit their site only on weekends and do not have the opportunity to adapt to the vagaries of the weather.
There are so many things crawling and flying in our garden that we often don’t even know their names. It is necessary to fight all pests. Competently caring for green pets, maintaining order on the site and carrying out timely processing of plants, we will be sure that the beauty of the garden and its yield will be at their best.
Abundant flowering of violets
Greetings, dear friends!
Due to their abundant and colorful flowering, violets have taken a leading position among indoor plant lovers. Violets bloom almost continuously. If the Saintpaulias are "offended" for something, and do not bloom as we would like, you need to pay attention to the conditions of detention. Let's talk about how to ensure profuse flowering of violets and about those factors that directly affect it.